A Tale of Lagers and Weizen Part II

While lagers are dominant in Germans' beer tastes, Germany is also well known for their wheat beer, generally fermented with ale yeast. We can also find a few precious barley ale styles, which are delicious but a bit hard to describe for reasons I will detail below. Let's kick things off with a look at the wheaty side of things.

Wheat Beer

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There are basically two types of German-style wheat ales: Bavarian Weizen (which includes the popular "hefe-weizen"), and the currently-in-decline Berliner Weisse style. Weizen beers are currently in vogue after decades of relative obscurity. They are a Bavarian tradition, and though they are "wheat" beers, malted wheat only makes up around 50% of their grain bill, with the other half made up of pale malted barley (the majority ingredient in most beers). These beers are pale, spicy, and fruity, and are designed for the summer by fun-loving Bavarians. Most weizen will have a slight clove character from phenols, as well as lightly fruity esters (often banana). The malted wheat makes for a light and creamy taste, while hops are used quite sparingly to provide a small bit of bitterness as contrast. Try Penn Weizen for an American example of this style, and Franziskaner Hefe-Weisse for an authentic Bavarian.

Also keep and eye out for Dunkelweizen, which is quite similar to standard weizen except for the darker Munich and Vienna malts that are included, giving a dark color and toasted flavor.

"Hefeweizen" is unfiltered - the yeast and sediment will be mixed in, giving the beer a cloudy look with a yeastier taste. Any wheat beer could technically be hefeweizen, I believe, as long as it is unfiltered.

Berlin Weisse

These beers are quite interesting; called "the Champagne of the north" by Napoleon's men, Berliner Weissen are bubbly and elegant. They have very low gravity (2%-3%, generally) and (consequently) little malt flavor, which makes them a great light summer beer. In addition to yeast, these beers are soured with lactobacillus bacteria (much like Belgian gueuze and lambic) and occasionally sweetened with fruit syrup at serving, I've only had the pleasure of trying one of these beers - the Berliner Kindl Weisse, which was light and effervescent with a dry lemon flavor. If you can find these, they are well worth a try.
German Barley Ale

During the 17th - 18th centuries, the German beer world was in upheaval. Lagers were gaining fantastic popularity, while the traditional ales were on the decline. The ale brewers fought back with various taxes, regulations, and other legal obstructions directed against brewing bottom-fermented beer, but nothing could be done to stop the yellow lager tide. In the end, German barley ales were almost completely eclipsed by lagers - only a few small groups of brewers (mostly around Dusseldorf) continued to brew in the old ("alt," in German) style, and they give us the two styles widely available today: Alt and Kalsch.

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The relatively small number of brewers that continued to brew Altbier over the past few hundred years means that we aren't totally sure what an "authentic" one tastes like. There is always debate over whether any given alt is truly exemplary, but what is certain is their potential for deliciousness. Alts vary from copper-colored to brown, and have a fairly high hop bitterness with good malt flavor, derived in good part from the darker Munich malts. They can be a little chocolaty and a little fruity, but rarely spicy. Interestingly, alts are often stored in the same cold conditions as lagers, which lends a clarity of color and clean flavor. Alaskan Amber is an alt-style beer, and not too bad at that. The best I have tried was a German example, Uerige Doppelsticke.

Kalsch

Kalsch is a style that is light in every way; it is pale colored with little malt flavor, a touch of fruitiness (generally citrus), and just a bit of hop. This beer, like alts, is stored at lager temperatures, which cleans it up and helps to clarify. They are very refreshing, tasty brews that I generally prefer to light lagers, though that is strictly personal preference. Try Alaskan Summer Ale or Hyland Farmhand Ale.

Written by Nick Jurkowski

 
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  • Steff S says
    Went backpacking where i met a german lad, naturally the subject of german beers came up. As it was the end of the week we thought we would go down to the local and see what they had. As it turned out we bought a range of german beers (the wheaty flavour was my favourite) and got stuck in a sampling session. what started as in intellectual beer discussion turned out to be one of the funniest nights ive had. and i'm still in contact with my german buddy!
  • Jamie says
    When I was 18 I went on Contiki. Naturally one of the stops was Munich for the last day of Oktoberfest. And so begins one of the greatest nights of my life.

    We all travelled to the event on trains from our hotel and were already "half cut" by the time we arrived from drinking a few of the local beers in the hotel... it seems just about anywhere you go in Germany you can just order a beer and it will be good and when I say good amazing by NZ standards. Interestingly enough the Germans have been brewing their beers under the Purity law of 1516, which basically states they have no additives. TAKE THAT Steinlager.

    Anyway back to my story... We decided there was no time to "fornicate spiders" and headed straight to the Hoffbrau Beer tent. The place was absolutely crawling with Kiwis and Aussies drunken and singing from tables and it was only mid afternoon. The night began to get messy from there and many a round of Stein was ordered the waitresses boobs got bigger and bigger and I somehow managed to get pretty cozy with a little sexy blonde frouline and her friend. They dragged me outside and lit up a joint, which one of the German Police saw and immediately kicked them out but left me to go back inside as I was a tourist and did not partake in the smoking.

    So I proceeded to drown my sorrows in the ladies absence and have a few more steins and we were all smashing things by this stage including our steins and each other. The Contiki tour made its way back to the hotel (God only knows how) via the train. Our tour guide was so drunk himself he fell in the Gap between the train and the landing a bit of an emergency occurred trying to free him and he was lucky not to loose his leg.

    All of this of course I struggled to remember and only figured out what had happened the next day by looking through my photos on my camera and asking the more sober individuals on the tour. Here's my favourite photo which pretty much sums up the night.




  • Boks says
    A Good Lager is worth................. well you fill in the rest !!!
  • Peter T says
    The Germans' like the Kiwis sure love their beers!!!
  • A good lager is like a fine wine- there is a time and a place- and the time is now and the place is here.....

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